Those seeking an authentic Florida Keys experience should plan their vacation in the Lower Keys, where the fishing and diving are great, the hardwood hammocks still stand, and a laid-back attitude prevails. Whether you’d like a touch of fine dining or an afternoon on one of the world’s best beaches, Big Pine and the Lower Keys deliver.

Though the Lower Keys are only 30 miles from Key West, the atmosphere couldn’t be more different. Big Pine and its satellites move at a slower pace, luxuriating in the landscape of the “real Florida Keys.” Since there’s been much less commercialization in the Lower Keys, they offer a unique opportunity to explore the islands as they originally were without having to charter trips to the uninhabited offshore keys. Birdwatchers and eco-enthusiasts enjoy backcountry kayak trips through the mangrove marshes.

Photo of Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge

Beginning at the southern end of the Seven Mile Bridge, the Lower Keys surround Big Pine Key and stretch from the Spanish Harbor Keys south to Big Coppitt Key. No trip to the Lower Keys should exclude Bahia Honda State Park, where one of the world’s premiere white-sand beaches awaits. The beach wraps around the southern tip of the Key, sloping into the open Atlantic on one side and a protected cove along the Seven Mile Bridge on the other. Shallow water snorkeling reveals small patches of active reefs, and the state runs thrice-daily snorkeling trips to magnificent Looe Key. Camp in the trees or lodge in cabins and spend your days kayaking, biking along the paths, listening to ranger seminars, sunbathing and snacking at the store.

Divers will travel thousands of miles to swim through Looe Key Reef National Marine Sanctuary, one of the prettiest and most active in the Florida Keys. Deep-water divers frequent the Adolphus Busch wreck off Cudjoe Key, sharing the space with Goliath Grouper and the resident sharks. Of course, dive shops and charter boats aren’t scarce, but reserve space a couple weeks in advance to avoid getting left on the dock at this popular dive area.

Lower Keys visitors can choose between the thrill of offshore fishing and the art of backcountry fishing – either way, there are dozens of highly qualified captains ready to make your day memorable. Offshore anglers vie for Marlin, Tuna, Sailfish, Dolphin (Mahi-Mahi), Wahoo, Mackerel, Barracuda, and sharks. Backcountry fishermen seek out Tarpon, Permit, Bonefish, and Snook, while reef charters all but guarantee you’ll land a variety of delicious snapper or grouper.

Like elsewhere in the Florida Keys, cuisine here ranges from decadent to bathing-suit casual, but it’s almost always built around fresh local seafood and tropical flavors. Mangrove Mama’s is a famous informal/family spot, while the restaurant at the Little Palm Island resort is world-renowned for its inspired “Floribbean” and Asian fusion dishes and romantic atmosphere. Wherever you choose to dine, make time for a stop at the No Name Pub. It’s difficult to find (and purposely so, too – ask a local for directions), but their pizzas will have you coming back year after year.

Big Pine & the Lower Keys are dotted with well-staffed accommodations ranging from the luxury of Little Palm Island to the quaint comforts or bed-and-breakfast homes. Adventurers are well served by dive-oriented hotels, many of which are coupled with a dive shop and charter on the premises. Expect to be surrounded by vibrant tropical landscaping, the lapping waves of the Gulf and Atlantic, and the warm rays of the sun. Common amenities include freshwater pools and hot tubs, private garden courtyards, screened lanais and balconies, and views of the islands.

The history of the Lower Keys begins with the Calusa and Tequesta Indian tribes that inhabited the area when Ponce de Leon landed in 1513, but who disappeared over the next several centuries. During the 1800s, settlers began moving into the area, sustaining themselves by fishing, sponging, and charcoal production. While Key West quickly grew into a rich and relatively populous city, the Lower Keys didn’t see a large influx of people until Flagler completed his Overseas Railroad in 1912. In 1935, a hurricane destroyed the railway and the remnants were sold to the State of Florida, which rebuilt it as the Overseas Highway.

Photo of Key Deer

KEY DEER

Look into the brush alongside the Oversea Highway and you’re likely to see the tiny Key Deer peeking out at your from behind the foliage. These diminutive island celebrities are a subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer that grows to only around 80 pounds and under a meter tall – and those are the bucks; does and fawns are smaller yet. Local citizens and the government fiercely protect all Key deer, so make sure you’re obeying speed limits when in the area and don’t attempt to feed them.

Now protected by the 9,000 acres of the National Key Deer Refuge, Big Pine and the immediate surrounding islands are the only place Key deer make their home. Thankfully, their numbers have rebounded to between 650 and 800 animals from a 1957 low of as few as 30 deer. Look for Key deer from the Johnston Keys to the Saddlebunch Keys, or stop at the Visitors Center on Key Deer Boulevard off U.S. 1 for a guaranteed glimpse of them. They’re most active during the dawn and dusk hours, and are often seen by campers bedding down at the Big Pine Fishing Lodge.