This northernmost key is best known for its diving – but only slightly less famous for its connection to the inimitable Humphrey Bogart. In 1948, John Huston directed a Bogie & Bacall noir filmed here, named after the island, and featuring a hurricane and group of grouchy gangsters. You can even float along the waterways the authentic steamship Humphrey Bogart shared with Katherine Hepburn, the African Queen, which is now docked just off US Highway 1 at the Holiday Inn marina.

Naturally, after reliving scenes for your favorite classic films, you’ll want to learn for yourself why Key Largo is known as the Diving Capital of the World. The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary reefs begin here, adjacent to the tropical wonders of John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the only undersea park in America. Take a charter trip to nearly anyplace in the 100+ square miles of the reefs to see over 500 species of fish and over 50 types of coral.

Photo of Carysfort Reef Lighthouse

The string of coral reefs that speckle the Atlantic Ocean off the Florida Keys archipelago comprise the only living reef off North America, and among the most beautiful, varied, and vibrant in the world. These living reefs attract brightly colored fish, stingrays, sharks, lobster, sea urchins, sponges, eels, and other species. Many reefs are shallow enough to be fully explored by a snorkeler, while scuba diving certification is required to delve into the depths at which many of the famous wrecks rest. The Christ of the Deep statue - one of the most popular sites in the Keys, where nearly 200 underwater marriages are performed each year - is accessible by both snorkeling and diving.

If the barracuda spook you, it’s easy to enjoy the sub-sea show from the safety of a glass bottom boat. Some of these excursions include snacks and libations, especially those that launch just before the sunset ignites the waters surrounding Key Largo.

Despite the fact that Key Largo’s southern neighbor, Islamorada, took the title “Sport Fishing Capital of the World,” Key Largo certainly isn’t a poor spot to drop your bait. Large numbers of tuna, tarpon, mahi mahi, wahoo, kingfish, and other prime offshore species swim along the Gulf Stream. Snook, permit, and bonefish slip through mangrove stands in the backcountry of Florida Bay, and snapper and grouper varieties swarm the many wrecks and reefs that lie just offshore. Charters are plentiful and knowledgeable, but you can bring your own boat or rent one here, too.

Pennekamp isn’t solely a sub-sea park – trails wind through the coffee and mahogany trees of the preserved hammocks. Farther north, Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park houses over 80 protected species in one of the largest tracts of West Indian tropical hardwood hammock in the United States. Either spot is the prefect place to observe indigenous wildlife and coastal and raptor birds in their natural habitat.

Stop at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center in Tavernier for a chance to tour the facilities, learn about the center’s objectives, and feed the pelicans. Call 305-852-4486 in advance for tour reservations. The waterpark at Dolphin Cove offers opportunities to swim with dolphins, snorkel through the nearby reefs, see native crocodiles, explore the ecology of South Florida during an eco-tour or kayak trip, or relax aboard a sunset cruise. Dolphin Cove is at MM 102; call 305-451-4060.

Photo of Dive Boat at the Elbow Reef

Comprising 12 square miles of prime tropical land, Key Largo is the largest of the Florida Keys islands and so offers the greatest diversity and density of accommodations – some of them unique. Jules’ Undersea Lodge, the world’s first underwater hotel, was once a marine research station but has been converted to accommodate couples or small groups. Located 21 feet beneath the serene surface of the Emerald Lagoon, the lodge comprises two bedrooms, a bath, and a common room with mini-kitchen. MM 103.2, Oceanside.

The atmosphere in Key Largo is always laid-back, inviting, and relaxing. Dinners of fresh-caught local seafood, tropical cocktails, and key lime pie prepare visitors for an evening of torch-lit, beachfront partying. If you’d rather recline in solitude, stake out a cabana on the beach or a chaise lounge beside the pool and listen to the distant sounds of soft drums and the endless surf.

Key Largo is situated at the northern end of the Florida Keys chain, an hour from both Miami International Airport and the Florida Keys Marathon Airport. Immediately south of Key Largo, Tavernier extends from about MM 95 to MM 90 and affords quick access to both the Gulf and the Atlantic for boaters traveling Tavernier Creek.